Saint Laurent: New Vintage

Saint Laurent for Spring-Summer 2013:

- French dressing in L.A.?

- French-California fusion?

- The New Vintage?


They may all be correct. I have chosen the New Vintage, because this debut collection at Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane wasn't about new proportions or colors, per se. It was about a certain esprit, which gave the clothes, admittedly early-YSL inspired, a newness that has been absent in recent fashion. If the collection wasn't letter-perfect on trend, it was, more importantly, on strategy.

Mr. Slimane understood his challenge, and it is one that few "artistic directors" at major fashion labels really understand: how to breathe new life into a heritage brand.

Why this collection stands out is its French-West Coast American feel. Take note.

In a really strong season, let us see if this collection both resonates and reverberates through fashion.

- AP