10 septembre 2009

Alta Moda/The Red Master: Valentino





Gentle Reader -

What ever happened to haute couture from Rome? Indeed, it is as if alta moda never happened. Today, most people (rightly so) associate Italian fashion with Milan.

For those with access to the archives of fashion past, a quick look through the pages of Italian Vogue are enough to inspire both frustration and admiration. The oft-times lack of originality gives rise to the former; the display of technical skill, the latter.

Valentino [Garavani] used to be associated with the alta moda of the 60s-80s, but the Red Master is in a category all to himself. There is throughout his work - from suits to elaborate gowns - not only a sensuousness, but more to the point, a sinewy finesse that is the marriage of silhouette and skill. Thus, his work places him conceptually closer to Paris.

For those firmly in the alta moda camp:

Roberto Capucci
Renato Balestra
Fausto Sarli
Mila Schön
Irene Galitzine
Furstenburg (Egon, not Diane)

The alta moda, however, is not dead, just in need of new life, new creators, new visions of what high fashion can be.

- AP

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