Sphinx: New Tribalism

First, two Utterances for the century. If you are new to the Paris Copy, then think of these "utterances" from the Palmier fountain in Paris as an oracle:


V80: The future was once fashionable. Now, it is simply technological. To regain the future, style must go ancient.

V81: Lesage is the only firm that can translate the wonder of Australian dreamings into fabulous capes. This should not take 20 years, just one client.

While the Utterances are normally cryptic, V80 and V81 are suggesting that we are in the beginning patterns of New Tribalism.

New Tribalism is not a collection sent down the catwalk in Paris or Milan, informed by trend reports and funded by a percentage of last season's sales. However, elements of any collection might find their way into the overall mix, the presentation, as it were.

New Tribalism is to be found in native totems, the plumage of exceptional birds, and the joy of semi-precious stones. The themes of design connect the urban dweller to the stars.

- AP

Court Fashion: The Dukes of Burgundy

Gentle Reader -

There was a time when the court of the dukes of Burgundy wielded power, style and flair. This time in history is just a launch point...

Velvets, damasks and linens - boldly dyed and richly embroidered, the late Middle Ages was a time of experimental fashion. And a time of transition as well.

The cloth dominated fashion up to this time:

- what kind, what color, how much decoration, and who could wear what.

In other words, fashion wasn't quite free way back then.

Now, in fashion history classes, it's easy to get bored with doublets and hennins - whether or not you know the actual names for these archaic pieces of Western dress, you've seen them before.

Examples include:

- Agnes Sorel: any representation will do, but notice the bodice first and the hairline second.

- Venice: before 1453, Venetian style is bit more opulent than Florentine style.

- Jean Sans Peur: because his name just sounds better than 'John the Fearless'.

Remember, those archaic pieces are the foundation for modern fashion, and mark a period (a very long period) when the Rule of Who Could Wear What (the Rule of Cloth) transitions to the Rule of What One Can Get Away With (the Rule of Form).

- AP

For Young Designers

Gentle Reader -

The fashion game as it has been played is, like so many things in this Age of Transition, over.

If you are a young designer (read: just starting out, no matter what your age), consider the following:

- regular podcasts rather than advertising in magazines
- show fewer, but better designed, clothes and accessories
- focus on being a cult brand with loyal followers (read: people who buy) rather than store buyers
- "tweet" your inspirations

Fashion images have become the fast-food of style: consumed at a rate that does not help actual clothes being shown at stores. Sure, it is nice to think of becoming the next Yves, Ralph, or Galliano.

But the way it was done may not be the way to do it now.

- AP

Lacroix

Gentle Reader -

As you may have read elsewhere, Maison Christian Lacroix has filed for bankruptcy protection.

This is but one more sign that the 19th century model of the couture house - as envisioned by Charles Frederick Worth - is over.

However, this is not the end of Lacroix, or the end of creation.

Creation in fashion, la mode, must withstand the pressures of the marketplace. Otherwise, we are doomed to clothing that is without vision.

- AP

June: Instant Fashion

 

It is sometimes perplexing to see how industry cycles are often at complete odds with the seasons of the year. This isn't a critique, but a question of "why not?"

For the beginning of June and in the spirit of "why not?":

- Fashion collections held much closer to the season in which they are actually worn. Who wants to wait for clothing six months later when the images are already current. By the time the clothes hits stores, those images are already old.

- Better yet, when traveling, don't pack. Instead, work with your hotel's concierge to provide a wardrobe that is ready for you when you arrive. Who doesn't want to feel the sense of wonder of a room filled with presents?

- AP