Sense and Sensibility in 18th Century Dress

It may be a bit of a stretch to say that the robe à la française of the 18th century was what the LBD (aka: the little black dress) represents for our times: an always appropriate piece of costume that can be rendered in almost countless variations.

So much so, that we've perhaps forgotten the robe à l'anglaise, of which this is an example.

Just a reminder that that grace, suitability and flair still have a place. It is the difference between having clothes, and having a wardrobe.

- AP

Chic/Punk/Paris

When Cristobal Balenciaga, the great master of haute couture, closed his ateliers in the late 1960s, Western fashion as a representation of status, power and order of the elite was over.

Of course, fashion can be a manifestation of other things as well, and has been - no matter if we are referring to Western, Eastern or native dress.

While Punk was such a phenomenon, and is perhaps due for a return, the message today is really that group-mind fashion isn't the only way to dress.

Create your own fashion position and follow or change it as often as you desire.


-AP

Cryptic Monday: October 22, 2012

Cryptic thoughts for this Monday:

- Next fall: edible colors. Think figs, jams and preserves - ripe and rich
- Stylist presentations: curated online showings just after the shows?
- Fabric from trees: motorcycle jackets made from ebony or rosewood?
- The rise of High Street Bespoke: beyond occasion dressing. It's already here.
- Portugal. Poised for a rebirth. 67% chance of actually happening.

- AP

Japonerie: Hot or Cold?

If you were following the recent Spring/Summer 2013 collections, no doubt you noticed elements of "Japanese-inspired" clothing. But was it a new development, or a return to the late 1970s-1980s? Old Gianfranco Ferre? Kansai Yamamoto in his heyday?

Unfortunately, no re-interpretations of the Heian period (think Pillow Book, Tale of Genji) appeared this time.

Will the trend grow cold before it becomes available at retail?

Or is it time to scout and secure vintage examples?

- AP

Saint Laurent: New Vintage

Saint Laurent for Spring-Summer 2013:

- French dressing in L.A.?

- French-California fusion?

- The New Vintage?


They may all be correct. I have chosen the New Vintage, because this debut collection at Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane wasn't about new proportions or colors, per se. It was about a certain esprit, which gave the clothes, admittedly early-YSL inspired, a newness that has been absent in recent fashion. If the collection wasn't letter-perfect on trend, it was, more importantly, on strategy.

Mr. Slimane understood his challenge, and it is one that few "artistic directors" at major fashion labels really understand: how to breathe new life into a heritage brand.

Why this collection stands out is its French-West Coast American feel. Take note.

In a really strong season, let us see if this collection both resonates and reverberates through fashion.

- AP

Paris: Spring/Summer 2013

New York. London. Milan. Next stop: Paris.

Today begins the round of collections for Spring/Summer 2013.

No promises, no predictions here about what you might see.
(More cobalt blue? More python prints?)

If you've been following the round of shows, enjoy the presentations. Breathe in the level of detail, whether it's aspirational or exceptional. Feel the rush as the looks pass. Try not to think about the letdown once each show is over.

As noted a few weeks back: watch the shoes.

And watch the plumage of those who have come to define "street fashion".

There's something to this flock.

- AP

The End of the Couturier

The dress shown above was made before the era of Haute Couture.

As the current Spring/Summer 2013 shows progress, it's quite clear that the era of the couture house, as practiced by Charles Frederick Worth, is long past us.

But does that mean that great fashion is no longer to be with us? Probably, if you're one who longs for 1950's ball gowns or the precision of fittings to achieve the perfect fit.

Ultimately, all fashion ages to costume.

We should enjoy the best of the now, and look forward to new developments in fashion. The promise of fashion is that there are great clothes that have yet to be made.


- AP