Paris: Spring/Summer 2013

New York. London. Milan. Next stop: Paris.

Today begins the round of collections for Spring/Summer 2013.

No promises, no predictions here about what you might see.
(More cobalt blue? More python prints?)

If you've been following the round of shows, enjoy the presentations. Breathe in the level of detail, whether it's aspirational or exceptional. Feel the rush as the looks pass. Try not to think about the letdown once each show is over.

As noted a few weeks back: watch the shoes.

And watch the plumage of those who have come to define "street fashion".

There's something to this flock.

- AP

The End of the Couturier

The dress shown above was made before the era of Haute Couture.

As the current Spring/Summer 2013 shows progress, it's quite clear that the era of the couture house, as practiced by Charles Frederick Worth, is long past us.

But does that mean that great fashion is no longer to be with us? Probably, if you're one who longs for 1950's ball gowns or the precision of fittings to achieve the perfect fit.

Ultimately, all fashion ages to costume.

We should enjoy the best of the now, and look forward to new developments in fashion. The promise of fashion is that there are great clothes that have yet to be made.


- AP

Faster Fashion

Like the graceful deva above, fashion as it is currently practiced creates a kind of euphoria of the moment. Odd, isn't it, that all the fall "must-haves" in stores feel out of sorts with the SS13 shows for the next few weeks?

Perhaps we need changes in global production and distribution modes so that we can wear the moment in the moment.

The late Nan Kempner was lucky enough to buy fashion straight off the runway.

But then, Nan was always of and ahead of her time.

- AP

Direction: Spring/Summer 2013

A brief observation:

The shoe is what the hat once was: that which completes a look.

Look carefully during the upcoming shows.


- AP

Cryptic Mondays: Chakras, Chanel

Fashion fragments for the week:

The little heel. Not a flat. Not a stiletto.

Should a dinner dress be aligned to the chakras?

Did the Chanel jacket break the mold of the tailleur?

Antonio Castillo: time for a fresh look at the Lanvin-Castillo years?

Quiet Couture: Restraint and Presence

Amid the ruffles, embroidery and feathers, beyond the riotous mix of patterns, colors and textures that all seem to clamor for attention in our cacaphonous world of the hypernew, there is fashion that does not shout, yet can speak volumes. Call it quiet couture.

Applied restraint does not transform the wearer but rather contributes to a wearer's presence. The difficulty lies in knowing when only the small details suffice.

Cryptic Mondays: re/MIX

Gentle Reader - A few cryptic gems for this week: - Neo-Vintage vs. In-Season: less expensive, with a critical eye - Hubert de Givenchy: compare to Cristobal, Yves - Topaz/Peridot with Opal - Portugal: almost awake with fashion eyes - AP