The Copy: Before Big Fashion

Gentle Reader -

Once upon a time, people either made their own clothing or knew someone who could do it for them. It was a time when Givenchy and Dior were independent couture houses, headed by Hubert and Christian (respectively). Today of course, both houses are divisions under LVMH.

This was also the last era of the copy, the "direct from Paris" look, translated by thousands of women (Chita Rivera sings "a copy of a copy of a copy of Dior" in the movie, "Sweet Charity") for themselves, friends or clients. Even the great Carmel Snow came from this background. (Mrs. Snow is not as well known now, but that's for another post.)

In other words: the tradition of making clothes has almost left us. For those who are passionate about making clothes, perhaps it is time that we get a bit more serious than what the "hobby" magazines would have us believe.

Case in point: this Nina Ricci pattern still works within our current modes of dress. It's not vintage, but rather a classic that can be made today. But let us be clear that there is a difference between a copy, as used in this sense, and pirating, which is altogether something else.

Hint for the next post: dressing up from the ground.

- AP

Men's Fashion Then - 18th Century Redux

Gentle Reader -

The man pictured is obviously of today, but in clothing that harks back to the 18th century. While an all-silver theme would have been out of the question back then, note the sense of proportion, and a certain spirit that does not speak to our corporate work realities.

A reminder that clothing speaks to not only our tastes, but also outlines the very foundations of what we signify as meaningful.

- AP

Feathers: Decorous, Delightful!

Gentle Reader -


Though haute couture is, to paraphrase Patsy Stone (actress Joanna Lumley's AbFab character), kept alive only by embalming fluid, the traditional arts of wearable decoration still have much to teach us.

Take for example this Maori cape on display at the British Museum: the level of detail, of knowledge, needed to create this is quite astounding.

Despite the pressures of modern fashion, where trend supplants inspiration, works like this cape let us know that the ability to decorate the human form, and take delight in that decoration, is somehow innate to us.

Let's look forward to the next round of collections, as there is bound to be something that can give us awe and enjoyment!

- AP

Men's Fashion Now: Draping, Anyone?

Gentle Reader -

Before we get another collection and fashion magazine spread about men in kilts/skirts, why have we not seriously considered draping in menswear?

Before Savile Row begins to e-mail me (I imagine it would be a gently worded reproach), yes, as a term, draping is integral to menswear. But draping in this regard is more about the way cloth hangs close, but ultimately away, from the body.

What is suggested in this post is closer to the flou of couture: the artful arrangement of fabric such that it animates when worn.

Perhaps Western men's fashion is not yet ready, but as this is the 21st Century, isn't it about time?

The statue above is carved from wood, and much older than the initial conception of the suit. You might have already guessed an Eastern influence.

- AP

Cryptic Monday: Upcoming Collections

Gentle Reader -

What should we expect for the new collections? More of the same? Or something else?

- AP

2010: One Look Back

Gentle Reader -

Fashion is ever on the move, though sometimes it's in circles.

One last look at what may be the dress of 2010, done by the late (Lee) Alexander McQueen. An example of when fashion went forward.

Towards 2011 we go!

- AP

Couture Masterpiece of the Week: Jean Patou

A dress to study: this technical masterpiece from Jean Patou is both subtle and dazzling. Confidence and carriage are needed to wear it to great effect. A reminder that great dresses demand to be shown off. From the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A).

- AP