17 juillet 2011

London Under the Radar: A Touch of Subtlety













Gentle Reader -

Expect a lot more of London as we head toward the 2012 Summer Olympiad. While the brash/clash/dash of London fashion is world-famous (and rather peculiar to the city), there is a certain quality that also excels in London:

The Art of the Subtle


Perhaps you call it discretion - or some other name for the obviously not-obvious detail that marks fine workmanship, quality and thoughtfulness. This isn't to be confused with Italian workmanship, which is more accurately a sublime bravado.

The Art of the Subtle isn't readily found in London department stores. Rather, it is in the quiet shops that you will find it on display in spades.

And you might not ever notice it.

- AP

11 juillet 2011

Couture: Reborn?















Gentle Reader -



Last week's couture presentations in Paris offered hope that couture can be reborn. This wasn't about shapes and silhouettes, but a feeling that Paris can again be the absolute center of fashion. Really, did anyone talk about Berlin Fashion Week?

Two brief notes for the future:

At the very least, certainly it is time to call Azzedine Alaïa exactly what he is: master.

The question of the moment: does Nicholas Ghesquière/Balenciaga enter (or is that return?) to the realm of couture?

- AP

ps: with due respect to Ms. Horyn, there was much more to the Chanel show than met the eye.

06 juillet 2011

Couture: Past Tense?


















Gentle Reader -

Question: Can haute couture still exist outside of museum exhibitions?

Perhaps the answer can be found this week during the Fall/Winter presentations in Paris.

- AP