Paris Couture: Why Lacroix? More on Dior!

Christian Lacroix, in this writer's view, had the best collection of the recent shows. Why?

The answer isn't simple one. Surely the feeling that this might be "the end" of the House of Lacroix surely left moments of both joy and sadness. You may recall that the house recently filed for the French equivalent of bankruptcy protection.

Paul Poiret, the great couturier of the early 20th century, was in a similar predicament in the 1920's. Certainly the headscarves at the Lacroix show were eerily similar to those worn by Denise Poiret, the wife and muse of Paul Poiret during his heyday.

Really, the show was a moment: as if the grand ladies of Arles (as envisioned by Lacroix), with all of the regional splendor found in prior collections over the years, had become, surprisingly, Parisian in their dress.

In many ways, the show recalled those days when Lacroix was at Jean Patou in the 1980s. In sum, it was a bittersweet collection that showed promise for the future for the house, no matter how slim the actual chances for continuing may be.

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Much has been made of the Dior collection, which, with its transparency and revealing of hosiery, felt a bit burlesque. That is, at first glance.

A closer study shows that it could be interpreted as a collection of separates. Given that today's woman does not dress in ensembles (one of couture's many holdovers from its glory years in the 1950s), it made complete sense to show the exquisite jackets and voluminous ball skirts as options to completed by the wearer - or by über-stylist Rachel Zoe.

- AP

Brazilian Prep

Gentle Reader -

The costumes of Carnivale are the easy icons of Rio de Janeiro. The sunga - the square cut men's swimsuit - is almost as well known. But what about Brazilian Prep looks?

Consider the American Prep look, like the late American poet, Elizabeth Bishop, going south:

- Colors: hot pinks mixed with jade green; light blues crossed with yellows
- Combinations: seersucker and feathers, linen and glitter

However, consider these for evening only. Brazilian Prep is a possible direction for cruise (aka, resort) collections for winter 2010.

- AP

Paris Couture: Fall-Winter 2009/10

If it is July, then there must be a week of haute couture. But for how long?
Consider that couture no longer pushes fashion forward. Consider that the names seem to dwindle down each season. And exactly how many couture clients are left in this era of the Great Recession?

There are those who would say that the time for very expensive dresses is completely over.

That might be the case. However, the look and feel of a dress that is made by hand, that moves with the knowledge of wearer's movement sewn into it requires years to make technique look magical. To create this kind of poetry through fabric is one of the sacred arts of the world.

Because in this world that prefers keystrokes to craft, human artistry is indeed one of those mysteries that we should preserve.

A special thanks to those couture suppliers who helped to make the Lacroix show such a beautiful gift.

- AP

The Fashionable Scarf

Gentle Reader -

For some time now, the accessory has become the fashion statement - not the actual clothes. For many women, shoes and bags speak for themselves. But there are other places, like Cairo, where headscarves tell the story.

- AP